to prevent or correct deformity and maintain normal mobility and function, Podiatrists provide the basis for the ideal walking style and posture, and identify any medical or surgical condition that may require further referral and management. They also relieve pain, treat infections and skin, nail, soft tissue and connective tissue problems. This is done in conjunction with other members of the health care team. Podiatrists will also give expert advice on footwear, so it is a good idea to take a pair of shoes with you when you next see your Podiatrist.
To prescribe healthy shoe the Criteria should be considered
• Toe box allows normal foot function for the individual
• Adequate width and depth achievable for wearer’s foot function
• Sole does not interfere with normal foot function
• Softness and flexibility of upper and lining surfaces of shoe
• Stable heel of approximately 25mm height
• In-shoe climate which promotes a healthy environment within the shoe
• Shoe provides reasonable cosseting of vulnerable areas of the foot
• Shoe retains it’s fitness for purpose for a reasonable period of time
• Shoe must not noticeably slip on the foot
• Availability of product advice and support
• Outsole grip meets industry standards
This course aims to let students know the different characteristics of shoes and apply knowledge and techniques in the process of shoemaking.
Module 1 Theoretical lessons
The foot, last, upper, middle and bottom components are analyzed in depth with the help of samples and detailed videos. Each student, with the assistance of our senior instructor will have the opportunity to understand why their favourite shoe “just doesn’t feel that comfortable” and the reason why. It is our goal to stir the curiosity of each student to have the constant desire to want to learn and understand more about the art of shoemaking and continue to work with passion in this industry.
The AGO/Cemented construction is analyzed step-by-step for different shoe categories: man elegant and casual, woman, healthy, confort, flat to high heels, leather to rubber soles
The analysis of footwear materials includes but it is not limited to:
- types of lasts and relationship with different styles, sizes and measures, the last as one of the tools in the manufacturing process
- analysis of different materials used for uppers and linings (leather, fabrics, and synthetics)
- overview of the leather tanning process, leather finishing
- upper edge finishing as part of the pattern engineering and preparation process
- hidden components: role and function of insoles, toe boxes and back stiffener
- traditional outsoles (leather and rubber), heels, units, platforms
- chemical sole-units: rubber, TPR, PVC, PU, TPU, EVA
Module 2 Pattern making activities
The foundations of technical design teach the main classic measures, traditional proportions and correct style lines for every type of basic men’s and women’s shoes designed on the flattened shell. Once the basis is established, the process learning path brings students to a deeper approach about more fashionable designs such as: more complicated pumps and challenging lace-up shoes together with simple and asymmetric sandals.
Ankle boots, boots, moccasins and asymmetric styles make part of this second stage which trains students to design on the plastic last too. To conclude the whole training, some lessons are focused on casual/running shoes and developments of very used pattern making techniques such as crimping vamps or tips about other types of pattern preparation aimed to manufacture shoes with different types of constructions other than Cemented.
Module 3 Prototyping and workshops
students put in practice what they have learned and they develop a prototype in the sample room
they start from their original design
- they choose materials and components from those available at the School. Along the years our instructors have developed several shoe structures made of a coordinated set of lasts, insoles, soles and heels that students can use for their creations. Leathers, fabrics and synthetics are also available at the School
- they develop the technical project of the patterns for upper and lining and they cut the pieces in the materials they have chosen
- they work side by side with the professional stitching technician in the preparation of the uppers: skiving,splitting, reinforcing and then stitching
- they assist and support the assembly process in the sample room: a professional operates the shoe making machines like toe and back lasting, bottom roughing, heel nailing and sole attaching
Every student work on his/her shoe sample but they also learn from looking at all the projects of the other students.
Module 4 Final Assessment
The final exam is an opportunity to recap all the subjects covered during the course and to assess the progress in skills and knowledge. It takes the entire week and it includes a fit testing session on students prototypes, a written test, a practical exercise and an interview